As a general rule, keep your skincare routine as simple as possible – no serums, acids, toners, etc.

Historically, the point of toners was that cleansers would strip the essential oil off of the skin, because they were quite strong, and the point of toners is to replenish.  If you use a neutral based cleanser followed by a moisturizer, you do not really need that toner.

Serums are very nice, but they tend to have a lot of added ingredients, like retinol. However, some of the ingredients can be helpful like niacinamide, which is an anti-inflammatory.

Simple rule:  Gentle cleanser.  Good moisturizer.  Great sunscreen. 

The type of base (or “vehicle”) you a product is in—ointment, gel, lotion, or cream—affects how well it works. These terms describe different chemistries, but they can be compared by their viscosity, or thickness. In terms of eczema, the strongest vehicle, from a moisturization standpoint, is an ointment. The issue with an ointment is that it might not be cosmetically pleasing as it can be quite greasy and sticky.

The next best thing is a cream. They are rich, thick, and have a bit of weight to them when you actually scoop them up or put them in your hand. However, they might not rub in quite as nicely as a lotion, which people tend to gravitate to because pump dispensers make application easier and quicker. Lotions contain lots of water and very little oil. Because the amount of oil drops as you move from an ointment to a cream, then to a lotion, oil, or gel, these later products can actually be dehydrating rather than hydrating.

Yes! People going through cancer have skin that is equivalent to eczema. People with eczema have a higher propensity to developing allergies to a product they are using. Even outside of cancer, people come to my clinic experiencing allergies, and I say to them: “I think you are reacting to xxx product” … and they say: “That product? I’ve been using it for the last 20 years.”.

That is exactly right. No one is born with allergies in their skin. We all need to be sensitized to products first and certain treatments can make your skin more sensitive, and therefore make your skin have a greater ability to be sensitized to an allergen. You can use something a million times, and the million and one time, you become allergic to it.

Key signs you are allergic to something:

• If things are getting worse rather than better, when using a product
• If things are red, itchy, scaly, especially in the areas where you are applying the product

I also recommend the website www.producteliminationdiet.com . It’s a wonderful resource and Dr. Skotnicki is fantastic dermatologist. I learn so much from her all the time.

I feel that way too, and I know these products inside and out. Every time I go, I discover new products that I was not aware of.

In general, you want to treat your skin like a person who has eczema – but you don’t necessarily need to get products for “eczema”.

Key words to look for are:

• hypo-allergenic
• fragrance-free – not scent-free (there is actually a difference)
• PH balanced or PH neutral product

There are lots to avoid in the pharmacy or drugstore – especially the acne aisle. Over the counter and prescription treatments tend to be quite irritating . And, acne – or something that looks like acne – is the single biggest side effect that I need to manage as a dermatologist for people that have cancer.

So, you might see an acne-like rash on your skin, but it’s not a great idea to get a strong acne cleanser. Most of these cleansers have acids in them (salicylic acid, lactic acid, alpha/beta hydroxyl acids), which can be irritating to the skin and disrupt the skin’s PH and/or moisture barrier. 

The same caution applies to retinol products. The prescription‑strength form is a retinoic acid (the active acid version of vitamin A) that can cause significant dryness, redness, and irritation. Over‑the‑counter retinol is a milder, non‑metabolically active form, but it still tends to dry the skin, which is exactly what we want to avoid.

Cancer treatments can cause skin reactions that are worsened by sun exposure, regardless of skin pigmentation. Using sunscreen helps protect against harmful UV radiation and prevents these reactions.  

To protect your skin from the sun, it is recommended to apply sunscreen every day, all year round, regardless of the weather. This is because UVA rays are present throughout the year and throughout the day, and they can even penetrate windows. 

If you go outside and engage in physical activities, it’s important to re-apply sunscreen frequently and generously – at least once every 2 hours, and immediately after heavy sweating or swimming. 

When choosing a sunscreen, select one with SPF 30 or higher to protect against UVB, and make sure it is labeled “Broad Spectrum” or shows the UVA symbol to ensure UVA protection as well.  

Apply sunscreen about 20 minutes before sun exposure for maximum effectiveness, and if using a moisturizer first, let it fully absorb to avoid diluting the sunscreen. 

It’s crucial to remember that UVA rays are present year-round and can penetrate windows, while UVB rays are more intense and primarily cause sunburn. For this reason, sunscreen should be applied daily, even when indoors near windows, to protect skin that may be more vulnerable due to cancer treatments. 

If a product is labeled “mineral”, it almost always contains zinc, titanium, or both. Some brands also include chemical filters in mineral formulas, but these filters aren’t inherently bad. In fact, many are safe and well-tolerated. Mineral sunscreens offer excellent protection, though they can be harder to blend in, especially over larger areas of skin.

UV-protective clothing is very effective for sun protection and is strongly recommended for anyone spending long periods outdoors or swimming, since water can wash off or reduce the effectiveness of sunscreen. A wide-brimmed hat offers better coverage for the face and neck than a baseball-style cap. Keep in mind that UPF fabrics can thin and lose effectiveness over time, so they will eventually need to be replaced. 

For cancers other than skin cancer, the skin is not the intended target of radiation; it is more of an “innocent bystander” as the radiation passes through to reach deeper tissues. When the skin itself is not the target, regular moisturizing before, during, and after treatment is often encouraged to help support the skin barrier. Some cancer centres also follow protocols that include a topical steroid to reduce inflammation, and this does not interfere with the effectiveness of the radiation. 

Certain targeted therapies can cause severe acne-like eruptions, known as acneiform eruptions. In these cases, over-the-counter products are usually not effective, and medical intervention is required. 

For adults not on these specific medications, acne can still flare due to underlying tendencies, particularly when the body is under stress. If you notice acne while on treatment, it is important to discuss it with your physician or oncologist first to determine whether it is a treatment-related side effect.  

If it is not linked to your therapy and is a flare of pre-existing acne, your family doctor or dermatologist can provide targeted care. There are many effective interventions for adult acne, including prescription medications and specialized topical treatments, tailored to the type and severity of acne. 

Skin changes are common during cancer treatment and can significantly impact quality of life. About two-thirds of patients say the effects are worse than expected, and around half will experience a treatment interruption or discontinuation because of skin issues. 

If your skin reaction is affecting your cancer therapy and quality of life, see a dermatologist familiar with treatment-related reactions. Often, these skin conditions are a sign the therapy is working, so stopping treatment unnecessarily can be harmful. Proper management can help you stay on therapy while protecting your skin. 

Whether or not you are experiencing hair loss, it’s recommended to use an anti-dandruff shampoo twice a week. Massage it into the scalp and let it sit for 2–5 minutes. These shampoos are anti-inflammatory and soothing. 

If you still have hair and experience redness or itchiness despite using the shampoo, a prescription anti-inflammatory lotion (usually a topical steroid) can be used. Apply nightly until symptoms improve, then gradually reduce frequency. 

For a hairless but itchy scalp, continue the anti-dandruff shampoo and follow with a rich moisturizer, cream, or balm to soothe the skin. 

Tea tree oil has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, so it can help with scalp irritation. However, some people may develop an allergy to tea tree oil, and many tea tree shampoos contain fragrances that can also cause reactions, so it’s advised to monitor your scalp for any worsening symptoms. 

For chemotherapies that cause anagen effluvium (hair loss), using an anti-dandruff shampoo twice a week can help keep the scalp healthy. Minoxidil (5% foam, brand name Rogaine) may also be useful—applied twice daily for men and once daily for women. Vitamin supplements can be beneficial as well. For certain chemotherapy regimens, a scalp cooling cap can help reduce hair loss, and there is data supporting its effectiveness. 

Nail changes during treatment can range from general issues like brittleness, cracking, or Beau’s lines—often related to stress—to more specific reactions from certain medications, such as painful inflammation of the nail bed. These problems can be distressing and significantly impact quality of life.

To care for your nails, stick to the basics: use a gentle soap (bring your own to public restrooms if possible), moisturize regularly, and wear gloves to protect your nails from trauma.

For general issues like brittleness or breaking, over-the-counter nail-strengthening lacquers can help. High doses of biotin are best avoided during treatment, as they can interfere with some lab results. 

It depends on the type of treatment. With hormonal therapies, the skin may experience lasting changes. For traditional chemotherapy, the skin usually returns to normal shortly after finishing treatment and once any reactions have subsided. 

• Gentle cleanser labelled for sensitive skin or for eczema
  
• Non-irritating and pH balanced or neutral

• Use lukewarm or cool water (hot water strips natural oils). Keep showers brief (less than 10 minutes) to minimize skin irritation 

A cream is likely best for you right now. The type of moisturizer you choose (called the “vehicle”) matters because your skin may be more sensitive and dry during treatment. 

Understanding moisturizer types: 

• Gels – Lightest, may not provide enough moisture during treatment

• Lotions – Light to medium, absorb quickly but need frequent reapplication

• Creams – Thicker and more moisturizing, ideal for treatment-sensitive skin

• Ointments – Heaviest and most protective, but can feel greasy 

Creams typically provide the right balance of moisture and protection for treatment-sensitive skin without being too heavy for daily facial use. Look for cream-based products that are: 

• Hypoallergenic

• Fragrance free

• pH balanced or neutral

• Avoid anything labelled “anti-ageing” 

Fragrance-free and scent-free are not the same. Scent-free products may still contain masking fragrances, which can be irritating. Look for ‘fragrance-free’ on the label whenever possible. 

Moisturize immediately after patting your skin dry from bathing to lock in moisture. If you don’t bathe daily, moisturizing on dry skin is still beneficial. 

It’s important to note that oils don’t add moisture – they lock in existing hydration.

For best results, apply oils to slightly damp skin or use them in combination with a moisturizer. The exception is scalp care when you have hair, where oils can be used alone since applying cream to the scalp isn’t practical.

If you want to use oils to lock in moisture, look for ones that are fragrance-free and non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores). Gentle, non-comedogenic options include: 

• Rosehip seed oil

• Shea butter

• Squalene
  
• Argan oil

• Grapeseed oil (cosmetic grade)

• Castor oil

• Baby oil

• Petroleum Jelly

• Bio-oil 

Coconut oil can be absorbed through skin and may affect cholesterol levels in some cases. It may cause allergic reactions in those sensitive to cocamidopropyl betaine. It’s better to avoid using cooking oils on your skin and opt for products specifically designed for skincare.  

Always test on a patch test on a small skin area that isn’t your face first. 

Treat your skin as if you have eczema. Hyaluronic acid is suitable for sensitive skin, but put aside other acids until 6 months after treatment ends. That includes retinol any other active ingredients.  

Wait until treatment is complete, or ensure the practitioner is trained to work with cancer patients using extremely gentle, non-irritating products. 

Toners are OK if your skin tolerates them and they’re not too drying. With a neutral cleanser and moisturizer, you may not need toner. 

Vitamin C serums are generally safe during cancer treatment. Vitamin C is an antioxidant and unlikely to cause problems. However, avoid Vitamin C serums mixed with retinol, as retinol can be drying and harsh on sensitive skin during treatment. 

• Start slowly – use every other day to test tolerance

• Choose lower concentrations (10-15%) and stabilized forms for gentler application
  
• Stop if you experience stinging, redness, or irritation

• Always follow with moisturizer and sunscreen

It really depends. While many people associate hair loss primarily with scalp hair, other hair types, including eyelashes and eyebrows, can also be affected. Some people might experience thinning rather than complete loss of eyelashes and eyebrows, and others may not lose them at all. Your treatment team may have more information about your specific protocol and the side effects others have experienced. 

Deciding when to shave your head is a personal choice that varies by individual. Many people notice significant thinning or loss a few weeks into treatment, making that a good time to consider shaving if you’re uncomfortable with your hair’s appearance. 

Shaving can provide a sense of relief and control, especially if your scalp becomes sensitive due to chemotherapy. It also creates a smooth surface for wearing wigs or head coverings. 

If you’re unsure, discussing the decision with a trusted friend or healthcare provider can offer support. Ultimately, do what feels right for you. But be sure to use clippers with a #1 guard, leaving 1/8″ of stubble. 

Do what feels right to you but do not go shorter than 1/8″ as this could irritate the scalp. Many people find that cutting their hair shorter before treatment makes the hair loss process feel more manageable. Keeping short hair can also make regrowth look more even. 

It’s a personal choice. You may want to keep a short cut which can make thinning less noticeable. 

It could be irritation, inflammation of the hair follicles or ingrown hairs. Instead of using a razor, use clippers with #1 guard to remove hair to prevent bumps from appearing or reoccurring. 

You can use either shampoo or facial cleanser on your scalp. Either continue your facial cleanser upward to your scalp, use body wash if tolerated, or try moisturizing shampoo. Look for shampoos that are sulfate-free, gentle and moisturizing. Choose products that are gentle, hypoallergenic, and pH balanced or neutral. 

Yes! Gently massage your scalp with facial moisturizer to: 

• Increase comfort and circulation
• Reduce sensitivity and itchiness
• Make wigs, scarves, or hats more comfortable 

Jojoba oil is particularly good for scalp care as it’s known for its soothing properties and ability to lock in moisture. Other gentle, non-comedogenic options include: 

• Rosehip seed oil 
• Shea butter 
• Squalene 
• Argan oil 
• Grapeseed oil (cosmetic grade) 
• Castor oil 
• Baby oil 
• Petroleum Jelly 
• Bio-oil 

Exfoliating the scalp can be beneficial as it helps remove dead skin cells, excess oil, and product buildup. Use a gentle cleanser and a baby washcloth to remove dry skin, then follow up with a moisturizer. If you require further exfoliation, try a gentle exfoliating product for sensitive skin. 

If your scalp is sensitive, irritated, or doesn’t have visible flaking, avoid exfoliating entirely. When in doubt, stick to gentle cleansing and moisturizing only. 

Yes. Remove with oily, acetone-free remover. Use petroleum jelly instead of cutting cuticles. Avoid acrylics (bacteria risk) and wear rubber gloves for chores.

Ask if professionals are trained for cancer patients. Avoid anything causing breaks or bleeding. Skip acrylics due to infection risk. Do not push back, cut, or push down cuticles. Only basic nail polish application is recommended—avoid other specialty services.

Petroleum jelly can be applied to nails to moisturize and act as a barrier cream, helping protect them from everyday damage. You can also consider using a hydro-soluble nail strengthener. Ask your healthcare team or pharmacist for recommendations on products specifically designed to strengthen brittle nails during treatment.

Yes, as long as skin isn’t scratched or broken and you tolerate it.

Recovery timelines:

Fingernails: Nails grow one millimetre per month, so full recovery takes six to twelve months. Bumpy ridges are from treatment interrupting nail growth—they’ll grow out normally.

Toenails: Toenails grow half a millimetre per month, so full regrowth takes twelve to eighteen months, especially the big toe.